In the old days people belayed off shoulders hips and around waists.
Atc belay device how to use.
Some atc style belay devices have a guide mode function they can be set up in a way which locks automatically if a climber falls.
The belayer uses a belay device to catch a fall and to lower a climber from the top of the route.
When belaying a single rope you can use any one of the rope slots.
The carabiner is then attached to the belay loop of the belayer s or rappeller s climbing harness.
To use an atc belay device a loop of rope is threaded through one of the slots.
It is designed to improve belay safety for the climber by allowing the belayer to manage their duties with minimal physical effort.
Anatomy of an atc.
Figure 8 devices are primarily used for rappelling however they can be rigged to belay a leader or a top rope climber.
Search and rescue caving rappelling.
At just 73 grams this featherweight belay rappel device is optimized for ropes between 8 1 and 8 5 millimeters in diameter yet works with ropes from 6 9 to 9mm.
A more compact lighter version of our versatile atc guide the atc alpine guide is built for smash and grab ascents in the mountains.
There are three main methods which you can rely on.
Figure 8 belay device.
Simply pull the brake strands through as the climber moves up.
With the right belay device a small weak climber can easily arrest the fall of a much heavier partner.
Alternatively you can use a munter hitch which can be done with the locking of a single carabiner with the climbing rope.
Shaped like the number eight they have one larger and one smaller hole.
This is the main body of the belay device.
These are the openings in the belay device to pass the ropes through most atcs have 2 rope slots which allow them to belay half or twin ropes.
Modern technology has given us many belay devices but the atc and the grigri are the most commonly used.
The atc guide climbing belay rappel device by black diamond is lightweight and easy to use offering smooth handling while you are climbing to your greatest h.
You can set up guide mode as shown with one rope or two.
When rappelling you feed a bight bend of rope through the large hole and loop.
Even if you belay or atc device is unretrievable you can still rappel down safely.
They can be used as a normal belay device too.